Skating & Surfing
I skate every chance I can when there is no surf. The
reasons I skate started with wanting to do something when there is no decent
surf to hit. As with all things of this nature it grew completely on its own
from there. I don't identify myself as a surfer, hacker or skater but these
are all things which are a part of me and I am a part of. Through skating, of
almost any variety, one can attain new levels of confidence by the nature
of the activity: skateboarding is individual yet can be done with friends. It
is one of the few things one can do and almost always progress, even a little,
each time you do it. Take my word for it, the first time you ollie, the
first time you carve a wall, grind a feature - your confidence will shoot
through the fucking roof. It doesn't matter if you are fifteen or fifty.
Surfing I do whenever possible. It is the source. There is
nothing like surf stoke; a scientifically proven 100 percent natural high.
People often associate the ridiculous waves like mavericks or the pipeline
to surfing. That is big wave surfing, a totally different thing. I am a short
and grovel board surfer. Generally I ride anything from two feet to twelve
(if it is reasonable to get out there). This stuff, board riding and the
life in general, it isn't about any one thing like speed junkies or that
shit. It is a lot of stuff rolled into it and it is different for each person
who chooses to do it. Ask a million surfers to explain what it means to them
and likely you will get a million different answers.